* SOLD to Steve Joiner of Agilent 9/00*

Escort Station Wagon EV conversion
(Click images for full size view)

'92 Ford Escort sta-wgn, 5-speed, white body, heather interior, 108V US-125s, Curtis 1221B, GE motor w/ blower, built-in 120VAC K&W BC20 charger, Goodyear GLS Invicta tires, tinted windows, power mirrors, fold down rear seats, range: 45 miles @ 55mph / 35 miles city (worst case driving), Top speed 65mph, and has SB50 connector in the rear hatch area for optional fast charger.

Side View
Note: tinted rear windows

Rear view w/ hatch open. Note: fast charger cable

Rear battery compartment w/ carpeted lid open

Plush heather colored interior

Rear seats individually fold down for additional space

Passenger side front seating area

View from back seat area of front seating

Drivers view. Meters: Left - surface voltage Right - battery current

Short throw, easy shifting 5-speed, AM-FM radio

Front view hood open,
controller in the center

View of K&W BC20 charger & vacuum pump

Heater fluid tank
& curtis controller

Front side view hood open

Front side view hood closed

Charging cord plugs into where the gas inlet was
Escort EV * SOLD
(At cost, No profit) 
Tires, shocks, brakes, transmission are all handled the same as with as gas car. I have found that with the reduced amount of daily driving and less stress an EV puts on the vehicle, what could considered
'normal repairs' are much less often and easier to plan for.

When taking your EV to a gas repair shop, either allow you to drive the EV into the stall or a quick overview of how to make it move can be given (clutch in, foot on the brake, turn the key, it doesn't need
starting, it is already on, release the clutch and give it some accelerator. I usually get "Hey that's easy enough!" hmm, nothing different).

If there were either a repair/add-on/upgrade performed to your EV, then our local qualified EV mechanic is Mike's Auto Care http://geocities.com/evdriver

EV Tricks and Tips
With both my Blazer and Escort now using Goodyear GLS Invictas, 20% above the nominal will increase your range, by reduce rolling loss.

Some people are let the clutch slip as like they were driving a gas car (to keep the engine from dying). There is not engine to stall. I find giving less acceleration, letting the clutch out quicker, and
then applying power with the accelerator is a smooth power transfer that extends the life of the clutch.

I have CSAA, and they are others that insure EVs as well.  There are many on the EV List that can discuss what their EV insurance company is, what they cover, and what region they reside in.

I also have the $15/yr tow plus plan. This means that if you needed a tow this plan would cover a 100 mi distance for free (but only a couple of times per year). There are other insurance companies that
offer this, and one can have this tow plan membership without using CSAA insurance (i.e.: XYZ insurance and CSAA membership tow plan) Also see:
  EV Insurance

The onboard K&W BC20 charger uses a standard 120VAC 20 amp outlet. With this outlet, charging at 10amps, the EV will totlally recharge in 10 hours (8 hours to 80% or 4 miles per hour of charge, the final portion of the charge cycle is slower at a lower current). With a 120VAC 30 amp outlet with the charge set to a 20 amp charge current, the total recharge time is 6 hours (4 hours to 80% or 8 miles per hour of charge, the final portion of the charge cycle is slower at a lower current). If a additional Zivan NG5 charger (using a 220VAC 40 amp outlet) were connected to the fast charger port and the onboard charger used, the 80% recharge time is 2 hours.

A 108V system with flooded batteries needs to charge to at least 135V. Each 6V battery is charged to 7.5V x 18 = 135V.  This is an easily understandable mistake since 18 x 6 = 108.  After charge the batteries should settle down at rest to about 119V.  After driving, when the batteries are at 108V (when NOT under load) you are more than half discharged.

If you have a newer battery charger, their chip inside will equalize your batteries. Else, every 10 cycles is a good rule of thumb to equalize your batteries. All this is explained in the Kitty Roden Trojan Battery Report   http://members.aol.com/brucedp/evbatt.txt

The battery posts are the round SAE automotive posts (solid stud). No squishy stud with the bolt hole through the middle.

There two DC-DC converters under the body that provide the 12V power for the lights, radio, wipers
and more. This means there is no aux 12V battery to maintain.

I find whether it is my power hungry, water slurping Blazer or outlet nursing, water sipping Escort, checking and watering the EV once at the end of the month is fine.

A trick that was given to me by a cool Electrician at one of my work sites, is to make the watering easy. With his advise, I when to Home Depot, bought a cheap plastic garden sprayer ($10), unscrewed the the
spray tip (now it squirts), and dedicate it to only be for watering batteries.

Distilled water is what I use, and recommend. Too many experiences and reports are given to me of people that go cheap, using so called 'good for batteries' water (either out of machines or the store. Distilled water in the 1 gal container cost me $1.10. I use 1/4 of that for the Escort on each watering. That's $.28  Don't be penny wise, and battery foolish.

Bat.    20 AH   Wt. pack   pack  range  Cycle  miles  miles X cycles
type     rate  Lbs. volts   Wt.  miles  life   /Lbs.  /Lbs.
T-105    217   61     96   976   59.4   754   .06086   45.89 
T-125    235   66     96  1056   64.3   650   .06089   39.58 

 Cycle Life test - T105 Wet cell battery
100%-     .  .   .                                              -100%
    |   .   |          .     .      .       .     .
80% - .     |                                           .       - 80%
    |       |                                           |
60% -       |                                           |   .   - 60%
    |       |                                           |   | .
    |       |                                           |   |
    |       |                                           |   |    .
    |       |                                           |   |
    |       |                                           |   |      .
Cycles     100    200    300    400    500     600     700     800
* Extrapolating for a T125, at 600 cycles you would be at 80% capacity.
Any future EV questions can be brought up and discussed on the EV List for free.

12/99 DMV has now got the Escort in my name and put 4 Goodyear GLS Invicta tires (balanced),
pack is broken in, EV is ready for sale to a good EV family.
11/99-7/99 minimum use of the EV, only to maintain it, as I wait and wait  for the DMV to 
transfer the title. 
7/99 After completion: arranged for a tow of EV to my home (battery pack was too new to discharge
them too deeply, one should wait until they have been broken in.
6/99 US-125's have been ordered, Clare Bell of the Women's Racing team, will be changing out the batteries and installing a 10 gauge cable pair from the front battery connections to the rear interior area.
A SB50 connector will connect a 220V fast charger. 

5/99 (when I first got it)

1991 Ford Escort Station Wagon purchased from Green MotorWorks in Alameda.

Curtis 1221b controller, K&W BC-20 onboard charger, 108VDC drive system, 18 T-105 batteries, 8 in front rack, 

10 in rear box

I purchased this Escort EV to keep in the SF area. If it didn't get sold it was going back to the LA area (Green MotorWorks home office).

(original images) - page by: Bruce {EVangel} Parmenter EV List Editor  - 01/02